Alaskan Adventures – Part II
Alaska – no shortage of adventure
by Mike Lane & Al Rogers
RodnReel.com

Soldatna, AK – Much like old habits, first impressions are forged into our memories, often impossible to overcome or forget. Psychologists believe that people decide in the first 10 minutes of a “meeting” what kind of relationship they hope to have with a new acquaintance.

I think this applies to places as well as people. In less than 10 minutes, I had fallen head-over-heels in love with the Alaskan wilderness. I was immediately enthralled by the physical characteristics of this region ranging from the temperate climates - the cool, crisp air that prevails from May through September to the pronounced rugged terrain that emerges from the roadside stretching into the endless skies. But, it would be difficult to say what is was that I found the most fascinating.

The size and diversity of this massive state is impressive. Alaskan nature can be intensely beautiful, but a complicated and dangerous entity, particularly for aurban dwellers such as myself. Much like the Medusian allure of an attractive woman, its mystical eyes and flowing hair can stupefy the most confident of men. There are perils here that must be regarded with great respect.

Many men, women, and children have become fascinated and mysteriously drawn into this magical wonderland. However, they often venture into areas, unknowingly taking risks, getting too close to giant bears and moose. Brown and black bears bears can kill with one swipe of their massive claws. Moose meanwhile, may seem passive as they graze on the hillsides but, moose have been called the disgruntled postal workers of the animal kingdom and are just as dangerous.

Many of people who have ignored warnings and disregarded the awesome forces, have lost their lives.

From the back seat of our rented Ford Aerostar van, I eased into a transcendental, Thoreau-like state. I rolled down the window to take in the captivating sounds of rushing rivers that beckoned, much like the former princess of Athena. There were chirping birds in the dense hillsides of spruce and birch trees. Arctic ground squirrels scampered about, as sheep and moose grazed on the hillsides. We passed rustic villages along the Steward Highway before turning onto the Sterling Highway. The pristine beauty was captivating.

There were no words to describe what I was experiencing. This pristine, unadulterated territory was unlike anything I had ever imagined in my wildest dreams.

As a Louisiana native and die-hard outdoorsman, I, of course, had visions of battling monster king salmon on the Kenai River. And I had waited for months for the chance to fight a halibut in the offshore waters of the nearby Cook Inlet. I had an agenda, and fishing obviously topped my list.

But I had no idea that there was so much more to do, so many more things to experience in Alaska, The Land of the Midnight Sun. But I soon found out.

Upon our arrival at the Gone Fishin’ Lodge in Soldatna (907) 260-9188, we were greeted by the owners Ralph Crystal (801) 913-0044 and Dick Brown. The beauty and charm of this lodge is enhanced by its prime location on the banks of the Kenai River. Our excitement escalated as we learned that the Kenai River was where the world record 16-pound red salmon, or king salmon was caught back in 1974. While most of the kings here are within the seven- to 10-pound range, this is where trophy king fishermen come.

Other species we planned to pursue would be silver and pink salmon, rainbow trout, and giant halibut. But it didn’t take long to realize there’s much more to Alaska that fishing. This great state is one of the world’s top destinations for many international wildlife photographers, big game hunters, river rafting and glacial kayaking enthusiasts.

Ralph Crystal, who booked our trip, took care of every arrangement. We found we had over-packed with layers of cold weather and rain gear, and mosquito suits. I was comfortably wearing my shorts and T-shirt, as the weather outside was a comfortable 66 degrees. We soon learned that Alaska is very friendly, and extremely casual. And we immediately felt right at home, fitting in perfectly.

The Gone Fishin’ Lodge can accommodate up to 40 guests, with rooms for up to seven guests per lodge. All rooms are furnished with modern kitchenettes, microwave ovens, refrigerators and full bathrooms.

In the main lodge guests have fully furnished kitchens, and a laundry and freezer room for their fish. There are also several gas barbecues on the back a 2,000 square-foot deck. The Gone Fishin’ Lodge has a large recreation room and lobby with television and a VCR so guests can view their day of fishing or just relax with a good movie.

While our fishing excursions on the Kenai River and Cook Inlet are forged into our brains, our other experiences in Alaska are also ingrained forever.

The scenery from the ground was spectacular. But this pales in comparison to the view we saw from floatplane that gently glided over mountains, fjords, glaciers, rivers and massive bodies of open water. We were told this was big country but we had no idea just how big. Seated in the 1,000hp turbine powered Otter with our pilot, Mike Carr, we flew over some of Alaska’s most remote regions. We saw brown and black bear roaming with cubs in tow. There were volcanoes and massive rock formations rising from the open sea. I asked the pilot if we could fly in closer to take some photos of the a glacier. Carr’s floatplane passed within a few yards from the top of one of the glaciers.

After shooting some spectacular shots from the air, we landed near the banks of a remote river to fish for king salmon.

Mike Carr, a 20-year veteran pilot with Mavrik Air in north Kenai, knows this region better than anyone in Alaska. He often shuttles tourists, professional photographers and recreational anglers to remote rivers such as the Mushagak and Chuitna. The Chuitna is on native Ryonik, a restricted native Alaskan territory.

“They let us in there (Ryonik) to fish for king salmon,” said Lottie Gottstha, a native Alaskan and employee of Mavrik Air. “Then later in the season we fish for sliver kings.”

In the fall Carr flies hunters to the Kkotzeua region for bear, moose and caribou. Mavrik Air also offers float hunts on the rivers in inflatable rafts. Some of the more favorite areas for photographers are a series of islands on the west side of the Cook Inlet including the Thisik, Duck and Callagan islands.

With two planes in Mavrik’s fleet, there is also a fair demand for fly fishermen who prefer the rainbow trout fishing in Crescent Lake.

Another one of south-central Alaska’s most experienced pilots is Lance Desaw, a Wasilla resident, flies for TC Guide Service (907) 252-9386. Desaw, a 25-year veteran Alaskan pilot spends much of his time in the air shuttling anglers to other areas to fish and photographers who come to capture the essence and beauty that is Alaska.

“I basically guide fishermen anywhere they want to go,” Desaw said. “Areas where I know where the fishing is good.”

Because the Kenai River is world famous for its trophy red salmon, it is often crowded with anglers hoping to break the world record, a 97.4-pound red leviathan caught in this river in 1985, Desaw said.

“If the conditions are right I’ll suggest the Kenai,” he said. “But I don’t fish there that often because of the crowds.”

One of his favorite areas is the Nashagak River, located about 60 miles west of Soldatna. Desaw said there are three times as many fish here, although they are generally not the size one will catch in the Kenai River.

Desaw's Taylor Craft single-prop floatplane is equipped with pontoons, wheels and even skis so it can take off or land in virtually any flat area, in any ground condition in Alaska. He moved here at the age of three months old and has never left.

“I moved here in 1956 with my mother from California,” he said. “I haven’t left the state in more than 30 years.”

He may not have to. Because it is so geographically diverse, Alaska may well be a world within itself. There are many beautiful cities, with Anchorage being the largest. But because it is so remote, an estimated one in eight Alaskans are licensed pilots, or they own their own aircraft. Some say that aircraft are as common as automobiles in many areas.

In the spring Desaw is a fishing guide who takes customers fishing for king salmon, considered by many to be the most desired of species in Alaska. His business often subcontracts guided flights and trips with local lodges such as the Gone Fishin’ Lodge and the Timberwolf Lodge right across the Kenai River.

A trip to Soldatna would be incomplete without a visit to the Timberwolf Lodge, owned and operated by Michelle and Mike Beals. This lodge has nine units each with a kitchen, shower, private porches and cable television. Each unit can accommodate up to four guests. The Timberwolf Lodge has more than 180 feet of riverfront frontage with docks and a waterfront massive deck.

First built in 1933 the Timberwolf Lodge (888) 352-3888 or (907) 260-5752 has a huge stone fireplace and a panoramic view of the Kenai River.

The Timberwolf Lodge is a favorite haunt of locals and tourists alike who come to get away, relax, or to just enjoy the scenery and fishing. But the biggest attraction may be the Cabin Restaurant. Residents from the nearby villages of Seward, Homer, Ninilchik and Nikiski come in regularly to take in the atmosphere, company and conversation. But there is nothing they say that compares to the food served here.

Michelle, a Lake Charles, La. native, said the restaurant’ most popular dishes include their fresh Alaskan halibut, Alaskan king crab, and a Timberwolf Lodge specialty – “the Cabin Steak.” This is a hearty 12-ounce filet stuffed with French bousin cheese. Another favorite is the grilled salmon per blanc.

“Alaska is nothing like I imagined,” said RodnReel.com co-owner Helmut Ermlich. “I could not believe how clean it was. And the people are all so friendly.”

Ermlich described Soldatna as a place full of small town charm and just close enough to the wilderness and fantastic outdoors opportunities that have made Alaska famous.

“If I ever got the chance I’d move there in a second,” he said.

Beals and her husband Mike, a California native, describe Soldatna as the central hub for the action on the Kenai Peninsula.

“It’s a small town of about 4,500 residents,” she said. “We have eight traffic signals, two grocery stores two high schools, and two elementary schools.”

The Timberwolf Lodge is open year round and offers guests a variety of guided fishing, hunting, hiking and sightseeing trips. The destination is a favorite stop for international photographers and world class hiking trails. There are also more than 200 miles of trails accessible only by snow vehicles for winter guests.

The Gone Fishin’ Lodge and the Timberwolf Lodge are also great places for clam digging on the Kachemak Bay for (smaller) steamer clams, and (larger) razor clams on the Cook Inlet. The razor clams are generally cut up and fried while the steamer clams are eaten whole.

During our trip we met other residents who have Louisiana connections. One gentleman we hooked up with was Doug Fruge’, a native of Ville Platte, who works in the oilfields for British Petroleum (BP) along the North Coast of Alaska. This is where the sun never sets from May through August, and the winters can be deadly. The air temperatures in winter here can drop to 50 below zero, with wind chills of 100 degrees (F) below zero.

This area, 740 miles north of Anchorage, is not a tourist destination. But it gives readers an idea of how extremely dangerous the elements can get here.

“It is one of the most beautiful places on earth,” said Fruge’, who still owns a home in south Louisiana. “But this is an unforgiving territory. People die every year from bear attacks and from getting lost in the mountains and freezing to death.”

Cell phones often do not work here. Satellite phones and GPS units are strongly recommended for anyone newcomers or adventure seekers. Fruge’ said satellite phones are pricey, but worth every penny when considering this communications technology could save your live.

“My first trip here was back in ’87 when I had to opportunity to fish,” he said. “I fell in love with it. “It’s changed so much since then. Back then much of the roads were gravel and it took about five hours to drive from Anchorage to Soldatna.”

With paved highways, the road trip is shorted to just more than three hours.

Fruge’ purchased a home in Willow, about 75 north of Anchorage. He said the oil industry; tourism and commercial fishing drive the economies of most of the villages along the Kenai Peninsula. Fruge’ spends a month in the Alaskan wilderness, and then travels home to south Louisiana for a month. While in Louisiana he frequently fishes for speckled trout.

“A lot has changed here since I first came. But much as remained the same,” he said. “The people here are so gracious and friendly – very laid back and informal. You don’t many people in Alaska wearing coast and ties.”

And that was fine with us. We seemed like a perfect fit. And we could hardly wait for the next adventure.